Tuesday, April 17, 2007

Motorcycle Fuel / Gasoline

Motorcycle Fuel

Gasoline comes from refining crude oil, which is ultimately a mixture of hydrocarbons. One way to explain how gasoline properties and characteristics are defined is to walk through the process of how gasoline burns. When gasoline burns the hydrocarbons separate into hydrogen and carbon atoms and unite with oxygen atoms. Octane rating (86,87, 89,..) volatility and density. Gasoline will vary in octane and quality from brand to brand but also station to station. Common problems are with moisture and contamination of the gasoline in the tank.

Always start with using the motorcycle manufacturers recommended gasoline type. Here is probably the most important and value added hint we can provide you.

Purchasing gasoline that is higher then what your motorcycle manufacturer recommends ads zero value, performance or longevity to your motorcycle. Simply put DON’T WASTE YOUR MONEY. But also remember that using the right octane gasoline is important since by not using the proper octane you can cause damage due to detonation, a condition where anti-knock fuel used doesn’t meet the engine requirements allowing part of the mixture to combust before the spark plug ignites the rest of the gasoline.

How to select the right gasoline / fuel for your motorcycle? Let’s dig a bit deeper into what does octane, volatility and density of motorcycle fuel / gasoline really mean.

Volatility is the ability for the fuel to vaporize. For example: a highly volatile fuel will help start a cold engine easier and run more smoothly and consistent during the warm up period. On the flip side in warm climates highly volatile fuel will cause vapor lock, which is common in carbureted cars.

Density is provides the measure of how much chemical energy the fuel contains, in terms of BTUs per gallon. How many miles to a gallon you get depends on the increase or decrease (usually in 2% increments) of the fuel density.

Octane ratings are the rating of how able is the fuel able to resist knock or metallic noise. Knocks can happen for many reasons and one of the main reasons is incorrect octane rating.

Last but not least are fuel / gasoline additives which help ensure consistent fuel and air mixtures required for consistent engine running and gas milage. During winder months or colder climates common additives are to de-ice carburetors. There are many other additives, which help with things like rust, wear and tear, and gum formation.

Please refer to manufacturers manual for your motorcycle on how and when to use additives and which octane to use as well as density and volatility of the fuel you should use.

Friday, April 13, 2007

Motorcycle Fluids

Engine and Drive Train Maintenance

If you have a new motorcycle make sure you follow all of the manufacturers maintenance recommendations, this is a must. What is always a good idea is to keep a log of all fluid changes, repairs, miles, dates, etc. This way you’ll know exactly when you did something vs trying to remember.

Motorcycle Fluids
If your motorcycle is under warranty the best advice we can give you in terms of motorcycle fluids is to use whatever the motorcycle manufacturer recommends, which is probably going to be their own product. Which is fine, probably cost a bit more, but if something was to happen while under warranty they have nothing to argue with you about. Buy your fluids from your local dealer so they get to know you. This is important to follow while your motorcycle is under warranty. Once off of warranty use your own mind and use what you feel comfortable with. We’re not recommending using automotive oil or things. Use products designed for motorcycle use.

Thursday, April 12, 2007

Motorcycle Break-In

Motorcycle Break-In

There are many theories and opinions on how to break in your new motorcycle. These is something you as an individual have to readup and decide on your own. As you read articles and opinions please keep an open mind as there are a few important facts to consider.

Read the manufacturers manual and their recommendations on use and break in period of your new motorcycle. Follow their recommendations, they can’t hurt. Motorcycle manufacturers spend a ton of time and money in engineering to provide the best motorcycle they can to end users. One common theme you’ll hear from motorcycle manufacturers is that the engine is not broken in until it reaches 10K miles. A standard motorcycle warranty is 12 months. But how many people do you know that put 10K miles in one year? Probably none or very few. Look, the manufacturer will not tell you not to follow their recommendations. So the most important thing you can do is try to stick to them as much as you can, change all fluids per their recommendations, regardless if you think the motorcycle needs it or not. This is very important, probably the most important, change your fluids.

There are two types of recommendations you’ll hear from your fellow bikers.
1) Baby your new motorcycle
2) Beat the hell out of it

Let’s talk a bit about babying your motorcycle. This mostly refers to not going too fast, be careful with the brakes and not to turn sharply. These recommendations are as valid as you thing they make sense.

The other side is to beat the hell out of your new motorcycle and the idea is that if it brakes you have the warranty and the manufacturer is responsible for the repair, some would say that you’re getting your moneys worth.

Most people will do a bit of both. Both have pros and cons so use your own judgement.

Our point of view is as follows:
- Follow manufacturers recommendations as much as possible
- Don’t abuse the motorcycle
- Make sure you ride the bike both slow and fast and anywhere in between
- And make sure the engine is warm before giving it extra throttle
- Don’t hard stop before reaching 150 miles
- Don’t go racing within 150 miles
- Take it easy in those turns within 150 miles
- DON’T redline the thing at any time
- Make sure the engine is warm before riding, always
- And no tricks such as wheelies
- Make sure to check your tires and brakes every time and replace as needed within first 50 miles on the bike